Mercato Pizzeria + Bar on Hillview Street in Sarasota. STAFF PHOTO / DAN WAGNER
The makeover at 1936 Hillview Street immediately impresses me. The main room housing the bar has a new verve to it thanks to all the white — floors, bar counter, ceiling, walls — mixed with a smart combination of blue and silver metal chairs and wood dining area tables. Another object that quickly catches my attention is the beautiful brick oven located just south of the bar, where I take a seat.
Mercato Pizzeria + Bar held its grand opening Jan. 16, taking over the sprawling, single story brick building in Southside Village formerly occupied by Bodega Charley's and before that, Ocean Blues. Mercato is the latest business venture by Alessandro Settimi, the original owner of Matto Matto Italian Cafe’ and Wine Bar in the Burns Court district of downtown Sarasota. Mercato is a much larger undertaking.
Alessandro Settimi, owner of Mercato Pizzeria + Bar. STAFF PHOTO / DAN WAGNER
For starters, it has a long bar and two connecting dining rooms. There’s so much space, in fact, that on Fridays and Saturdays after dark the restaurant transforms into a nightclub with the help of DJs. I begin my recent afternoon visit glancing at the solid wine and beer menus and then study the cocktail menu.
The restaurant and its owner’s Italian heritage are reflected in such drinks as the bellini and negroni while there are also more playful options such as the bloody mary made with tequila and the beach-y concoction of spiced rum and ginger beer. I start with the “euforia” ($13). It’s a fun, clean-finish mix of Hendrick’s Gin, St. Germain elderflower liqueur, lemon juice, simple syrup and sage.
The Euforio cocktail at Mercato Pizzeria + Bar. STAFF PHOTO / DAN WAGNER
Sipping on my drink, I can’t help but look over at the brick oven and think, Damn, Sarasota has so many pizzerias, does it really need another? But then my pie arrives and it’s a work of art. No city can have too many works of art, right?
Mercato makes its pizza thin and light, the doughy crust slightly darkened around the edges just the way I like it. The pizzas, which easily feed two, start at $10 with a couple priced at $18, including the Mercato House Special, which I’ve ordered. It’s a margherita-style pizza topped with arugula, tomatoes and prosciutto.
The "Mercato - House Special" at Mercato Pizzeria + Bar. STAFF PHOTO / DAN WAGNER
Mercato makes its own pasta, too, and then there are numerous other dining options with appetizers including the antipasto plate, fried dough puffs with sea salt and tuna tartare. I order the “polpette” ($9). It’s a plate of three tasty meatballs — made with “organic beef,” reads the menu — in a fine pomodoro sauce. I appreciate any bar where I can get some booze-absorbing meatballs, especially ones this good.
For my second and final cocktail, I take the bartender’s suggestion and have the “bourbon bomba” ($12). It’s an interesting mix of bourbon — I order Maker’s Mark — with basil, balsamic vinegar, simple syrup and ginger ale. The rather disparate flavors might not work for everyone but it works for me.
The Bourbon Bomba cocktail at Mercato Pizzeria + Bar. STAFF PHOTO / DAN WAGNER
Mercato has various attractions, from pizza and cocktails to a cool setting and dancing on the weekends, which should find a broad appeal. Here’s to hoping Mercato makes it. Settimi seems to really know what he’s doing and we really don’t want to write about another closure at 1936 Hillview Street.
MERCATO PIZZERIA + BAR
1936 Hillview St., Sarasota; 941-365-3300; mercatopizzabar.com
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WADE TATANGELO can be reached by email or call 941-361-4955. Follow him on Twitter at @wtatangeloor Facebook.com/wade.tatangelo
