Chef Talk: Joel Sardinha of Cafe Venice

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Chef Joel Sardinha (left) of Cafe Venice, with chef John Besh (right) .

Chef Joel Sardinha (left) of Cafe Venice, with chef John Besh (right) .

Award-winner Joel Sardinha worked his way from Naples to Punta Gorda to North Carolina before returning to Florida to be the executive chef of Café Venice Restaurant and Wine Bar (116 W. Venice Ave., Venice. 484-1855; cafeveniceontheisland.com). Sardinha adds his culinary flare to classic dishes like the eatery’s grilled romaine salad with feta cheese and balsamic reduction, and puts a finely honed spin on the fresh seafood selections.

Q: How did your culinary career lead you back to Florida after years of traveling?

A: I’m from Rhode Island came to Naples in 1994. I worked as the executive sous chef at the Mangrove Café until 1999 when I became the youngest executive chef on Fifth Avenue South at Bistro 821. I was later asked to join the River City Grill and the Red Fish Chop House in Punta Gorda as the executive chef. Shortly after Hurricane Charley, I went to North Carolina to work for the Sanderling Resort and head up their fine dining restaurant, the Left Bank. I won many awards at the Left Bank, including “Best Chef of North Carolina for Haute de Cuisine” in 2008. I was also chosen by the governor to represent the state in the Great American Seafood Cookoff in New Orleans, La. for 2008 and 2009. In 2010, I was recruited to join an upstart project on Hatteras Island, where we opened Good Winds Seafood & Wine Bar at Waves Village in Rodanthe, N.C. My heart has always been in Florida, so I returned in 2013.

Q: Café Venice has been a community staple for years. What brings patrons back?

A: We pride ourselves on personalized customer service and a relaxing atmosphere. It starts with Kay Kropac, the owner, and continues through the entire staff, from the front to the back of the house. We enjoy what we do and it shows through the attention to detail given to every plate of food.

Q: Did you ever receive a compliment about your food that made an impact on you?

A: “It really shines through your cuisine how much you love what you do.” Good food always starts from the heart.

Q: How do you spend your non-work time?

A: I love spending time at home with my family, friends and dogs. I enjoy golf but don’t get enough time to do that often. I have to admit I love dining out, and I will travel to try new cuisine and experience different culinary trends.

Q: Are there any new menu items or events at Café Venice this season?

A: We have an exciting new menu, which includes all the old favorites and has many new additions. We have also expanded our wine bar to include a full liquor bar. We have the BR Cohn Cigar & Wine Dinner at 6 p.m. Thursday and the Amizetta Wine Dinner at 6 p.m. Sun. Nov. 23.

WILD ALASKAN SALMON WITH BUTTERMILK DRESSING

Ingredients:
For the salmon --
1 3-pound wild Alaskan salmon filet (with skin)
¼ cup olive oil
1 large handful fresh mixed herbs (dill, fennel, chives and tarragon)
1 lemon, juiced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
For the buttermilk dressing --
1 cup buttermilk
1 cup mayonnaise
½ cup sour cream
¼ cup rice wine vinegar
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon onion powder
1 tablespoon celery salt
2 dashes Tabasco sauce
1/3 cup chopped, mixed herbs (chives, chervil and dill)
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Method:
Wipe the electric grill grate with olive oil and set to high heat. Season the salmon with salt and pepper, and drizzle with olive oil. Make a blanket of herbs on top of the filet. Cook the filet with the skin side down (grill cover closed) for five minutes. Turn the filet over and cook for five minutes. With a long spatula, remove the fish from the grill and drizzle with lemon juice. Whisk the ingredients together for the dressing. Transfer the salmon to a large platter with a bowl of dressing, with salad greens on the side.

Last modified: November 17, 2014
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