(See a slideshow of Mozzarella Fell making its fresh mozz.)
It’s mid-week, lunchtime, and Eating Companion and I are meeting a handful of gents downtown, at Main Street’s newest sandwich shop, Mozzarella Fella. Since opening a few months ago I’ve heard nothing but great things: killer fresh mozz, a mythical massive calamari sandwich, fantastic cannolis, etc.
Inside, the place is all Italian and New York knickknacks; both EC and I pick up immediately on the sole waitress’ Brooklyn accent. She says she’s from Sheepshead Bay. This is a very, very good sign.
There are some tasty-looking items in the deli case — broccoli rabe, rice balls (though they call them prosciutto balls), cannoli — but like most of the some twenty people inside we’re here for the sandwiches.
It’s an order-at-the-counter operation, and many patrons seem to be taking their sammies back to their offices, which I always find odd, especially in a place as calm and lovely as this.
There are 20 sandwich options, everything from veal parmigiana to potato and egg, roasted portobellos to chicken Française. Most run $7 or $8, with the veal options coming in around $10. There are a significant number of vegetarian options.
We sample from all corners of the menu: a fried calamari (with red onion, mayo, fresh lemon, $8); roasted portobello (with roasted peppers, fresh mozz, olive oil, balsamic glaze, $7); eggplant parmigiana ($8); prosciutto (with oven-dried tomatoes, fresh mozz, olive oil, balsamic glaze, $9); today’s special sammie – grilled chicken and avocado ($8); and, for good measure, a fresh mozz (with tomato, baby arugula, basil oil, $7).
There are a handful of two- and four-tops in the small dining area, as well as a number of seats at the bar that lines the front window, facing Main Street, which makes for wonderful people watching — we sit down just as a man driving something that looks like a Segway but which is not in fact a Segway almost takes a spill trying to avoid a very round and happy looking Labrador being walked on one of those retractable leashes that most dog owners seem to have a very hard time trying to figure out.
The sandwiches arrive wrapped in deli paper a la NYC bodegas, which makes me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. They smell amazing. The bread is fresh — baked everyday by the local Bavarian Bread Co., who use no preservatives whatsoever. The rolls are dense, chewy, perfectly salty. Our Brooklynite claims they spent some serious time perfecting the roll with the bakery.
The fresh mozz sammie is really light, refreshing, with a tangy but mellow balsamic balancing out the bright, spicy arugula. I have some vegetarian friends who are going to need to know about this bad boy. The roasted portobello sandwich is loaded with whole cloves of roasted garlic. It’s all texture and subtlety, another really light, warm-weather sandwich.
All of the sandwiches benefit from a certain attention to detail, which allows Mozzarella Fella to get away with some really delicious but remarkably simple combinations, accomplishing tremendous flavors with just a handful of ingredients. The prosciutto is a great example, just a generous amount salty, rich prosciutto, some heavily roasted tomatoes, a little olive oil, two hunks of fresh mozz, and a little bit of the balsamic glaze. It’s complex, but devourable.
The eggplant parm is tender, but not mushy, lightly breaded and covered in a mildly sweet marinara. Today’s special, the chicken avocado, is a little tough, despite the chicken being pounded thin.
The fried calamari sandwich is definitely the table favorite. They pile on a heap of really fresh tasting, lightly breaded and fried calamari, give a few good squeezes of fresh lemon, and throw on a few slices of red onion for a rather exceptional sandwich, bright and tart. Honestly, the calamari’s more tender than most middlebrow restaurant’s appetizer version.
We finish up with some espressos (a little pricey at $2.50 a pop), and cannoli. The espressos are above average, but nothing to write home about. The cannoli, on the other hand, are the perfect ending to a terrific lunch.
